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How to fit - Composite Doors Direct

Fitting  a composite door.

Tools required.

Electric drill and 8mm masonry bit or appropriate size to use if supplying your own fixings.
Screw drivers
Tape measure
Spirit level
Sealant gun
Stanley knife.

Read technical guide here.

Materials needed.
8 no 125mm x 8 frame fixers or similar
Tube of Silicone sealant (good quality low modulus)
Tube of acrylic sealant
Selection of packers and horseshoe packers.
Fixing kit can be purchased with your order

Before commencing work it is important to make sure that the door that has been delivered is as ordered and will fit the door opening. Once unwrapped it may be difficult to return it.
Check the following:
Check the door opening size against the overall size of the door that has just been delivered.
Check that the hinges are on the correct side and that the door opens as requested.
Check that the colour and furniture are correct.
Very importantly check for any damage.

Removal of old door

Remove the existing door and make sure the opening is free of all loose material and old fixings.
A simple angled cut in the centre of each side and a crowbar located between the timber and the brickwork should easily remove the old framework.
Try to remove the old frame with the minimal damage to any internal decorations. This will minimalize the making good.

Installation of New door

Firstly take the cill if used and cut the end profile to suit the cill aperture.
Lay the door flat,apply a bead of silicone to the top back edge of the cill and fix to the bottom edge of the door using 50mm x 8 screws. (From the underside of the cill into the door frame).
Make sure you seal any screw heads.
If using a low threshold cill it will already be incorporated into the frame.
Position the door and frame hard up against the existing plasterline or if into a new opening position,  a minimum of 15mm from the front edge of the brick face (This allows you to apply a silicone weather seal between the door frame and the brickwork)
Check that the door frame is central, plumb, level and that the diagonals are equal. Position a series of wedges between the frame and the brickwork to lock the frame tightly into the opening.
Open the door 90 degrees and position a wedge under the furthest bottom corner to help keep the frame upright and plumb into the opening.
You will note that on the hinge side there are holes located in the hinges in which you need to drill the appropriate size holes to take the fixings (usually a 8mm drill).
Carefully locate the fixings through the hinge and into the predrilled holes.
Apply the correct amount of horseshoe packers or similar between the wall and the frame in order to keep the frame straight and avoid any distortion.
Go to the lock side.
Close the door and check that the frame aligns with the door through its length and that neither the top nor the bottom kicks either in or out.
Check that the frame is plumb and that the lock engages.
Make sure that the frame is securely wedged and then drill 4 fixing holes.
The holes need to be 200mm from each corner and then equally spaced.(Do not attempt to fix nearer to the corners as it may crack the welds).
Repeat the process as detailed in the fixing of the hinge side again making sure there is no distortion in the frame.
Once the door is fixed firmly into the opening, trim of any protruding wedges and seal the outside with a quality silicone sealant and the inside with an acrylic sealant that can be painted over at a later date.
Fix the cylinder lock through the handle key hole and secure into position with the bolt provided through the edge of the door.
Gaps of up to 5mm can be sealed with silicone.
With larger gaps it may be necessary to foam fill and cover using a pvc D moulding.
The only job left is to remove any protective tape and clean down using soapy water.

Contact us for any more help.

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